It’s the day after Thanksgiving. The afternoon sun peers through the clouds, melting the morning frost and reflecting off the Puget Sound. Boats are anchored. Visiting families bustle around, buying groceries. The Christmas festivities are beginning in the village on Lopez Island.
All around town the local shopkeepers decorate for tonight’s town-lighting festival. Businesses leave their doors open for holiday shopping and offer free hot chocolate in the town square. Later that evening, locals and visitors sing Christmas carols around an open fire as they wait for the lighting.
The afternoon still finds businesses open and running, while others remain closed and prepare for later in the evening. One of the latter is the Love Dog Café, located at #1 Lopez Village. A young woman hangs twinkle lights along the wisteria-clad trellis above the outside dining deck. She’s the daughter of Connie Martin, the owner, manager and head chef of the restaurant.
Multiple windows separate the deck from the inside dining room, which seats close to 45 people. Blue carpet, cream-colored walls and a heating wood stove set the ambiance of this A-frame eating space.
Connie prepares food back in the small kitchen, and NPR plays in the background. Rufio and Tonka, her two Burnese Mountain dogs, are out back, eating left-over meat scraps. The dogs come to the restaurant everyday with Connie.
Yet one will not find “Connie” printed on business cards, but “White Bear Woman,” her legal name.
White Bear is wearing a red shirt with a black apron. She’s mixing freshly minced garlic cloves with basil and olive oil, a concoction into which she now places large slabs of lamb. This marinating container holds one of the special additions to tonight’s menu. Other specialties include savory potato cakes and bacon-wrapped scallops with an ancho-cranberry sauce. As she continues to work with Kiba, the assistant chef, to complete the long to-do list for the evening’s necessities, White Bear determines to make the night successful.
But will anyone show up for dinner?
The number of potential customers is not the main concern. White Bear is constantly confronted with countless details that affect the way she runs her business, some that even cause her to question why she comes back to work everyday. The Love Dog Café is one of the most lucrative restaurants on the island, and success can mean hardships along the way, both in the public and the private.
During the prep work, White Bear discusses various employee difficulties with Kiba. He takes inventory of the restaurant’s supplies.
Sprigs of rosemary and fresh basil leaves, used for entrée garnish, lie next to Portobello mushrooms and a large ham.
There is a bowl of turkey meat heating on the stove. White bear dices tomatoes and dumps them in with the turkey for the night’s soup.
“I know a lot of people have it at home, but it’s what I’ve got to use up,” she says.
She prepares three cases of lasagna from scratch with a homemade red sauce. She tops them off with fresh mozzarella, bakes and them freezes them for later.
Kiba is now slicing Portobello mushrooms for the night’s menu.
Two hours until opening.
***
White Bear’s habits of using all the current ingredients reflect her overall philosophy of running the restaurant on old-fashioned principles: use all food, don’t waste any; re-use supplies, like containers, rather than throw them away; repair things that are broken rather than discard them.
These material practices reveal her values, but White Bear approaches her business as worldview thinking. Take the name “Love Dog” as an example. The term refers to a spiritual warrior and comes from works of Rumi, a Persian poet of the ecstatic kind who believes that life is made of many enlightened moments, like multiple beads on a necklace. According to interpretations of Rumi’s poems, the intensity of longing to meet the Master (God, Creator, Allah, etc) and to understand Him is matched to the same intensity of a dog crying for its master.
When a customer looks at the menu, they read the following on the cover: “There are Love Dogs in this world that no one knows the name of. Will you be one?”
White Bear [uses] this worldview as the ideal means behind running the restaurant, and it is evident in various locations throughout the building. At the main entrance, there hangs a white board that greets the guests with the following Rumi quote: “Keep knocking and the joy inside will eventually open a window and look out to see who’s there.” The board is framed with twinkle lights. One of the bulbs in burned out.
These quotes are carried to the dish pit as well. As the employee goes about his tedious, grimy job, he can distract themselves with a Zen quote on the wall in front of them:
“There are two ways to wash the dishes: the first is to wash the dishes in order to have clean dishes, and the second is to wash the dishes in order to wash the dishes. If we wash them only to get them out of the way with an eye to the cup of tea after, we are not alive during the time we are washing the dishes…if we can’t wash the dishes, the chances are we won’t be able to drink our tea either. We will only be thinking of other things, barely aware of the cup in our hands. Thus we are sucked away into the future, incapable of actually living one minute of life.”
The dish pit is full of prep dishes. The restaurant opens in less than two hours now. Those dirty dishes need to be cleaned and put away before the customers start arriving.
“I was thinking of the olden days,” says White Bear, referring to the past when there was an actual dishwasher on staff. Now, the other employees have to wash the dishes themselves whenever they get a chance.
White Bear sometimes has to pick up the slack left by fewer employees. This has been the case since she first opened the business in January 2000, cooking three meals a day, seven days a week.
“Up until this last year, I never had a day off,” she says, noting that she may have taken three of four days for personal reasons in the past four years. “I just couldn’t stand up and do it [anymore].”
Personal burnout caused her to cut back her business hours. In the winter of 2005, the Love Dog Café closed one day during the business week. In September 2006, it went to two days. Beginning in May 2007, White Bear began serving only dinner between 3-9 pm, and continues to do so into the winter season.
“That move was only based on my energy,” she says.
This inevitable move dissolved nearly 10 jobs on Lopez Island, a significant portion of the community.
It was crucial for the business’ health, though. Between May and September of 2007, there were one third less sales than previous seasons but more profit. The financial situation however is not her biggest concern.
Many restaurants close down during the winter season due to slower business. “I feel guilty to have this beautiful space in the village…sit empty,” she says. White Bear feels that she is letting down the community by not offering food to those that want a meal away from home.
“It feels unethical to me.”
Some people will go out for breakfast, but not dinner, and vice versa; most will not go out to eat twice in one day.
“I wish there was another way,” she says. “That’s why I wish had a business degree, so I could know what to do,” she laughs.
While a business degree would help, White Bear’s educational background reveals the academic insights of her worldview thinking. After getting her undergraduate degree in Creative Writing, she earned a double-masters in Creative Writing and Creative Mythology from Washing State University. However, her program of choice required her to utilize that creativity.
“There wasn’t even [an actual] degree in mythology [at the time],” she says. She built the program from the ground up herself.
White Bear began her doctoral studies in mythology, but left academics to pursue poetry reading.
Today, she finds herself in the familiar pattern of preparing food for others to eat.
“Watch out, they’re burning!” she says to Kiba who cooks the Portobello mushrooms on the grill. “They take a lot of oil and water,” she tells him. Kiba places the finished product into a zip-lock bag to keep them fresh for the night’s meals.
Kiba, 22, is under pressure at this time. He is the hope for keeping the restaurant open while White Bear recovers from her upcoming surgeries on her hip and wrist. She will be recovering for at least two months, leaving Kiba as head chef.
Tonight, the other assistant chef called in, saying she can’t work. This means White Bear has to do all the cooking while Kiba helps the servers.
One hour before opening.
***
Staff shortages are not unusual at the Love Dog Café. Sometimes it’s due to employees being unable to work, but White Bear has had harder situations to face with staff.
“The one [thing] that I think of right away is that I’ve had a lot of dishonesty among my employees,” she says.
“I hate it.”
Such issues cause White Bear to fire such staff members. The action does not stop as the restaurant walls; it carries out into the small island community of nearly 2,000.
“It’s really hurt my trust in people, but [has] also really hurt my reputation,” she says. The rumor mill circulates an altered image of her, one that is difficult to work for.
“It’s really hardened me.”
White Bear mentions that if her business was in a larger city, this would not have as big of an effect on the business. It’s not the case on Lopez.
“For me, [the rumors are] huge,” she says. “It can be devastating to my business.”
These rumors carry out into the atmosphere among other local restaurant owners. The Chamber of Commerce tries to foster relationships among the local businesses, but it’s “competitive rather than supportive,” she says, adding that “it’s part of the fabric of the small community.”
Even among the competitive atmosphere and circulating rumors, sometimes the biggest challenge is letting the community know the restaurant is open for business during the winter season. Lopez Village looks dead because many restaurants close down this time of the year.
“People will assume we’re closed [as well] and drive right by our ‘open’ sign,” says White Bear. She is constantly thinking of new ways to convey that the business is open, such as getting new signs and putting twinkle lights around them.
Sometimes customers arrive, and sometimes they don’t. When business was slow a couple years back, the staff ran out of things to keep them occupied. They started making origami paper cranes, with a goal of 1000 in mind.
This reflects a peace tradition started by a Japanese girl after the Hiroshima bombings in World War II. It’s believed that when one makes 1000 paper canes, it changes the spiritual energy in the world and brings about peace.
Cranes now hang from the restaurant’s windows with jewels. They had been sold by donation to go towards the PRASAD project [Philanthropic Relief Altruistic Service and Development], a tsunami relief agency. On Thursday, January 27th, 2005, White Bear put on a fundraising Indian-themed dinner that raised $4,320 for the relief organization.
45 minutes until opening.
***
White Bear adds more ingredients to the turkey soup. She slices carrots on the white cutting board. Some are solid yellow, others are purple on the outside. These vegetables arrived this morning from Horse Drawn Farms, one of her local produce providers.
White Bear knows that people like eating locally grown food, so she caters to their wants.
“We try to play [the “local” aspect] whenever we possibly can,” she says.
This perk doesn’t come without a price. Between August and October, White Bear paid Horse Drawn Farms $2,500 for vegetables, sometimes causing meal prices to go up.
“We’ve tried to rely on the quantity of the business to make up [for] raising prices,” she says.
Customers aren’t always receptive, though. White Bear says that nine out of ten people say the Love Dog Café is more expensive than other restaurants than this. As a counter, she started putting ads in the Island’s Weekly, the local paper, saying, “You can still get a dinner at the Love Dog for under $10.”
White Bear values her employees and guests regardless of strife, though. As customers eat their meal, they look up to see a ceiling beam that separates the dining room from the kitchen and prep station. On the dining room side, it reads, “All are welcome in this circle of friends and breaking of bread. May this food nurture your body and strengthen your spirit.” On the employee side, it reads, “You are a beloved child of the goddess. You are allowed to make mistakes. Yes, you are.”
Customers appreciate White Bear’s efforts to welcome them into her establishment. One such patron is Joanne Graham, who has eaten with her husband at the Love Dog Café twice a month since it first opened.
“I think she’s a good cook; we like her. She has good quality food,” says Joanne.
Joanna also recognizes White Bear’s work ethic. “If there’s ever a problem [with the food, she makes it right [because] she cares.” She recalls one time when a friend didn’t like her meat in the meal. The friend told White Bear, who apologized and gave her a gift certificate for a free meal. White Bear realized she hadn’t inspected that particular shipment of meat, so she stopped using that beef company.
30 minutes until opening.
***
White Bear has had her share of trials during her six years of operating the Love Dog Café. Many are typical in the small island community. Others are related to business, employee and personal relations. All have played a defining role in making her who she is today.
One was legally changing her name to White Bear woman. More significant though is the painful journey that led to that change.
“God, that’s a 12-year long story,” she says.
When White Bear was a young girl, she was physically abused by her older brother. The nature of the abuse turned sexual and continued until she was 14. This abuse left her lonely, until an unexpected companion came into the picture.
“I had an imaginary friend that was a white bear. It came [into my bedroom] and comforted me,” she recalls. The bear was her source of friendship and remained a secret.
When she was 35, White Bear met an Arapaho medicine man from a Native American tribe in Oklahoma. She went to one of his ceremonies on Lopez Island and started working with him.
All was well until he asked her a life-altering question.
“How long have you had that white bear?” he asked.
This was the first time she was asked this. “No one ever knew about [the bear],” she explains. “He was able to see that inside [of me], and I understood that he could really see [me].”
This question brought about a dramatic self-realization for White Bear. She saw that she had two people in her: one was Connie Martin, familiar to those around her; the other was the white bear, familiar only to her.
What followed was a spiritual process that led her to changing her name to White Bear. She fasted several times without food or water for up to four days. Some time later, her name was legally changed.
“I think that’s part of why people are scared of me – there’s something they can’t see.”
***
Nine loaves of braided sea salt rosemary bread lie on the counter. On the opposite side of the kitchen sits a small basting brush with olive oil next to a bowl of grated cheese.
The dining room is set. The waiting lounge is heated by the wood stove. Many books wait to be read by customers. One is a collection of Rumi’s poems. The cover has an editorial by translator Coleman Barks. It describes everyone’s
“deepest yearning for the transcendent connection with the source of the divine: there are passionate outbursts about the torment of longing for the beloved and the sweet delight that comes from union; stories of sexual adventures and of loss; poems of love and fury, sadness and joy; and quiet truths about the beauty and variety of human emotion. For Rumi, soul and body and emotion are not separate but are rather part of the great mystery of the mortal life, a riddle whose solution is love.”
Rumi’s work inspired the name of the restaurant, and White Bear’s story continues to shape its direction.
Between her personal spiritual journey and the continual snares that accompany owning a business, White Bear finds her drive to press on in two areas.
First are the quiet times she has to herself in the restaurant. Everyday, she gets four hours of uninterrupted prep time to get ready for the evening’s dinner rush. Personal time is crucial.
The second falls right into her job description.
“I think it’s my passion to feed people,” she says. “You make the plate of food, and it’s so beautiful. I love watching [the customer’s] face as their food comes out to them.”
The customer gazes not only at the meal but also the personal care that goes into preparing every plate of food. White Bear takes pride in her job as well as the individual ingredients that make her food a self-described form of art.
“I just got a new box of cauliflower and it’s purple, golden and crisp,” she says. “It’s just beautiful.”
***
3:00 pm. The Love Dog Café is now open for the night.
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